Borgatta - Biancospino 2016
The very last vintage of Emilio Oliveri's only white wine. In spring 2017, this tiny parcel was hit by a terrible frost that ended up wiping out a sizeable portion of this plot of Cortese grapes. As he only produced 500 bottles or so of this wine to begin with, the prospect of making even less didn't make sense so he ended up pulling out the vines. As Emilio is now in his 80's, the idea of replanting also did not seem too appealing. Cortese is perhaps better known for Gavi, although this is a world apart. Strong notes of crisp green apple and elderflower, with a texture and roundness from a few years of bottle age and a lovely minerality. Now down to the last few bottles before it's gone forever.
Made by Emilio Oliveri, who has been working a tiny 2 hectares of land since the 60's with his wife Marisa. Now in his 80's, he is still going strong and still producing some of the best Piemonte wines we have come across in a very long time. These are wines ‘come si faceva una volta,’ a representation of tradition, of old methods, and of pure dedication. Wines infused with the energy of two of the kindest souls one is ever likely to meet.